Morocco: Between The Sea and The Desert

How much luggage should you bring?

I had the good fortune to meet an interesting man at the Port of Genoa: Claus Sivieri, an Italian motorcyclist aged 67, riding the “40-year-old” Cagiva Elefant 650. His jacket and the livery of his motorcycle bore evidence of many previous trips to Africa. And guess what else I noticed? For a journey lasting 3 weeks and 5,000 km, Claus had brought with him a small rucksack and an equally compact bundle rolled up and attached to his motorcycle: his tent. His route was to take him across the Sahara. My own motorcycle, on the other hand, was weighed down like a lorry… Too late, I realised that the difference was the excessive amount of clothes I had decided to bring with me. I had completely forgotten about the climate of Morocco. Take Fes as a benchmark: to the south of the city, the air is extremely dry and daytime temperatures can reach 30 degrees, even in October. You can hand-wash your clothes every evening, hang them from the window (yes, you need a line), and find them dry in the morning. As a result, 3 sets of underwear is the ideal amount to bring on your trip. 

Big cities or unspoiled landscapes?

This is an interesting question, with a very simple answer. Every big city centre, boasting shopping malls and elegant international shops, always has something artificial about it. Luckily, this is not the case in the countryside. Here, you can get lost in the back streets, minor roads and villages, where the colours blend into nature. It is difficult to suggest what to prioritise: what’s unmissable, which streets you should take. Once you begin to explore, you immediately realise that you will have to come back, again and again.
I can attest that Fes is a real gem for anyone who, like me, is not a fan of mass tourism, and that it definitely deserves a visit of at least two days. Marrakesh is far more popular with tourists and, as a result, may seem less authentic. The cost of living is also higher, and vendors much less patient.
Naturally, Marrakesh is interesting and charming, but life is purer in the small villages. So don’t drive through in a hurry, but make your way gradually through the rural centres to witness the daily lives of the people who live there: the children on their way to school, merchants preparing their stalls…

The round tour

recommended for newcomers to Morocco

For your first trip to Morocco, I recommend a round tour. Mine took me east, going inland.
The road from the port of Tanger-Med, skirting the Mediterranean coast towards Oujda, is magnificent: the landscape is fascinating, while also being similar to that of Italy, Spain or Greece. In the city of El Hoceima, I recommend taking a trip to the fishing port and visiting the fish restaurant in the bay. Here, it is possible to experience an atmosphere which is still “familiar” to prepare your stomach for Moroccan cuisine… and for the absence of alcoholic drinks. Bottled water, mint tea, orange juice and Coca Cola will keep you going.
I like to begin the day with an early breakfast. At 7:30 a.m. or 8:00 a.m. at the latest, the engine should be running. Before engaging the gear, check your fuel tank. Keeping it full will save you from wasting time during the day. My Africa Twin let me cover up to 400 km without stopping to refuel. It’s one less thing to think about, and you can relax in the knowledge that you need only stop at places of interest along your route.

Your first window onto the desert is close by, followed by the city of Errachidia on the Ziz River — oases filled with palm trees, and air temperatures of 34 degrees at 5:00 p.m.
Merzouga, an enchanting place to halt for a day or two, is the last stop-off before the roads become… challenging.
The cities of Erfoud and Rissani are like gateways into the desert.
However, Morocco is more than just sand and mountains. On its Atlantic coast, fascinating cities and breathtaking landscapes are to be found. The ancient fishing city of Essaouira, for example, will astound you with its colours. The area between Essaouira and Agadir is famous worldwide for its many Argan trees, known to the locals as “goat trees”.
Argan oil is an extraordinary and well known product, but refrain from purchasing it in the souqs or tourist shops. You’d be better off stopping at a “women’s argan co-operative”, where local women produce and sell argan-based oil and products.
The ancient, crowded and labyrinthine cities are well worth a visit, but be careful you don’t get lost! Not even an excellent sense of direction will grant you an easy escape; so, for your first time, it might be better to explore with the help of a local guide, particularly in the city of Fes.
In conclusion, a trip to Morocco is an essential element on the “curriculum” of any lover of two-wheeled tourism. To enjoy it fully, however, I think the right length of time and the right attitude are essential to truly appreciate all the natural and cultural wonders that this country can offer.